稲刈りは何日も前に終わっているのに、１０月になるのに今頃彼岸花が咲く。姫路は今日も真夏日、６日連続。明日も予報では真夏日。
日和佐のゲストハウスのヘルパーさんが Facebook に投稿していた話。外国人お遍路さんのために次の宿を予約してあげたら、その人のスマホは日本では通話ができないというので断られた。外国人お遍路さんは通話付きのSIMを手に入れることを推奨していた。相変わらず無断キャンセルで困っている宿が多いというからこれは仕方のないところ。むしろ自然当然だともいえる。お遍路ハウスはメールで連絡がとれるからキャンセルもスムーズでありがたいと遍路宿びざんのご主人が言っていた。
やっぱりお遍路ハウスがもっと増えることが外国人お遍路さんにとっては一番望ましいことであるに違いない。遍路宿の人ももう少しお遍路ハウスのことを知って、できることなら無理のない範囲で参加してもらいたい。実情を知らずに拒否している宿が多いと思うけれど、実際のところ参加した方がいろいろ楽になったりスムースになったりすることも多いと思う。airb&b や booking.com に参加するくらいなら絶対お遍路ハウスの方が便利だと思うし、外国人お遍路さんにとっても使いやすいはず。
今朝の姫路の最低気温は２５．６℃、２週間ぶりの熱帯夜です。熱帯夜の最終日は２２年＝９月１９日、２１年＝８月３１日、２０年＝９月１８日、１９年＝９月１０日、１８年=９月４日、１７年=８月２６日、１６年＝９月４日、１５年=８月２２日、１４年=８月２２日、１３年=８月２３日、１２年=９月１４日、１１年=９月１日、１０年=９月１３日。やっぱり歴代３位の異常気象。でも一番暑かった昨年でも彼岸に入れば２０℃を切る日が目に見えて多くなっている。本当にあと少しの辛抱というところ。ぼくは今の状態が続いてもさほど辛くないからどっちでもいいけどね。今日のウォーキングもかなりいい感じのスピードで歩けたし。
山茶さんもすねどらさんも明日から３日間四国を歩く、天気は良さそうで気温もかなり上がるみたい、大丈夫なのかな。ぼくが四国に入るのは１ヵ月以上先、昨年のその日の気温を見れば最低気温が１４．６℃、最高気温が１９．５℃。お遍路を本当に楽しもうと思えばこれくらいまで下がらないとね。
前の宿の主人に予約してもらった。
アンドリューはお遍路ハウス以外はほとんどこれ。まあへんろ宿ではよくある風景。ぼくも横から口をはさんでよい宿を紹介したこともある。四国とスペインの一番の違いはここにあると思う。スペインを歩く人は１年に３０万人、四国ではその百分の一、外国人はさらにその四分の一。だからこそできることなのかもしれないし、できるだけの人数であることが本当は望ましいことなのかもしれない。でもやっぱりお遍路ハウスのような便利なシステムがもっとあればとも思う。お遍路ハウスに加入するのはそれなりのハードルがあるみたいでなかなか増えないしむしろ減少している。お遍路ハウスに加入しなくても、電話しないで予約できるようにするのはさほど難しいことではない。ホームページに予約フォームを作るとか、インスタのＤＭから英語で予約する方法もある。実際にそうしている宿もあるし、アンドリューもその方法で予約した宿が何軒かある。でもあったとしてもそこにたどり着けるかどうかという問題もあるから一筋縄ではいかないということか。
四国に入る少し前からインスタをフォローしていて、８１番で実際に対面することもできたアンドリューが今年の春四国で泊まったすべての宿を紹介してくれたのでシェアします。
Hello everyone!
With Autumn approaching I thought it might be useful to drop my accommodation list from my
Spring 2023 OHenro. I'll include a lil description of each place, how I came by it, and what it cost (if I
can remember - please take these as the roughest of guides as it’s been a few months since I used
them). These places were often chosen deliberately through reviews or local suggestions, but some
were entirely down to fate. I always tried to keep up to 3 days booked in advance, but this wasn't
always convenient. At one point I had 7 days booked up, and felt very smug, but you should try and
be flexible in any case. My left knee died a bit around Temple 58 and so from then on I’ll include
some advice for getting around with dodgy bones. I’ve done the bare minimum of spell/grammar
checking because I’m lazy busy so please call me out forgive me.
When I completed my own pilgrimage I wanted to try and collect some pearls of wisdom for
newcomers...but I think my pal Maggie nailed that with her post (do a search in the ‘OHenro San’
group for Margreet – 8
th April). I'll only add to that the magic of Osamefuda. Those little name slips
might seem at first to be a secondary part of the journey, something you pop into the boxes at
temples, but I made a point to give one to everyone I met who helped me even in the smallest of
ways, and it always created boosting little moments and conversations. If I can give any advice its to
not take these for granted, and be liberal with their gifting. I think I bought 400 in total, though
brought about 80 back home with me in England, and maybe 5 lost to rain...so its a good number
given away.
I'll also preface the following by strongly suggesting (ordering, actually) you to investigate the Henro
House website. As a foreigner without a sim or much Japanese the ability to just pop in a reservation
through Google and be done with it was a huge win. They are always cheap, often have food and wifi
options, and are always full of brilliant people. Get involved https://henrohouse.jp/en
Day 1 - Long day getting a train/ferry/train from Koya-san to Bando near Temple 1.
Monzen Dori Henro House.
Booked through Henro House, cost 2800 Inc. breakfast. In my mind the perfect start to the
pilgrimage as Takahara-san is a true trail saint and did so much for me. Took me to the shop by
Ryozenji to get fitted out, took me through the temple requirements and practices, and gave me
much advice. I managed to book back in here at the end of my journey which felt like more of a
circle completion than revisiting T1 did. Magical.
Day 2 - T1-5, B1
Morimotoya Henro House
Booked through Henro House, about 5000 with two amazing meals. Just by T5. I left my bag here
around 2pm to climb up to B1 and back which she was happy with.
Day 3 T6-10
Channel Kan
Booked through henro house, 3500 no meals. A convenient little place, very modern and quirky. I'd
have preferred to be a little closer to T11 for The Big Day but it just meant I had a shuffle on in the
morning.
Day 4 T11-12
Sudachi-an, booked direct through null1903@gmail.com maybe 6000 inc two meals. Incredibly
situated after The Big Day, gorgeous house, lovely food (the best katsu curry of my trip) and they'll
take you to a cracking onsen for a few hundred yen. This place deserves to thrive. Final edit:
Knowing this place was at the end of such a challenging day was it’s own fuel to keep walking. It is a
haven.
Day 5 B2
Minshuku Myozai, just by T13. Booked by previous host. Maybe 6000 with two meals. It wasn't my
first choice but it turned out to be fine. A little dated but enjoyable and the food was very
good. There’s some miscellaneous garden furniture outside where I enjoyed a beer and some
konbini dinner and listened to the traffic slowly trundle by. On reflection this was a very nice little
evening.
Day 6 T13-17 + Tokushima
Ryokan Otsuku in Tokushima City. Maybe 3000 with breakfast (dinner available but I went into the
city instead (to a fkn KFC because I was homesick, what a wasted opportunity )). Adorable old
lady running it. Basically no English but we chatted through my phone. She was so so helpful for me,
a lovely person (they're all lovely, so this feels like a given, but she was a little extra x)
Day 7 T18 and minor mental breakdown
Minshuku Chiba by T18. Maybe 6000 with two incredible meals. Booked through previous host. Had
a right mare this day, started with a long phone call back home wondering what on earth I was
doing, ended up going to bed basically ready to give up. Just a mad one, really. I'm glad I eventually
got over it, but I'd say to be aware that such feelings might catch up to you (and feel free to reach
out to me if they do and we can chat). Take small steps, and ignore the whole remaining journey. For
me I promised myself I'd make it to the Pacific, and that was enough to sort me out.
Day 8 T19 and Katsuura
Kenekoya, booked through previous host. It wasn't my first choice as I'd heard only good things
about Mikan no Yado, but I'm glad fate took me here. Ran by a quiet but lovely man, who I hope is
thriving. I stayed here two nights as a base for B3. Maybe 6000 with two great meals.
Day 9 B3
Kenekoya again. Woooo. B3 is a special walk. I'm thinking of doing a separate post on the Bekkaku
temples, and this was up near the top. Host really opened up on my second evening, and he was so
happy with his Osamefuda. Always, always give these to people when you feel grateful.
Day 10 T20-21
Pandaya near T22. 5500 with no meals but a drive to a konbini to buy both...and then he sort of did
a breakfast anyway, so I think I misunderstood. Like I said at the start, this is about 70% information
and the rest is fluff. Booked by previous host. Another well loved guesthouse, owner was mad and
lovable. Great fun. We all nailed beers and sake too early into the morning, which made the walk to
the coast the next day a bit emotional.
Day 11 T22-23
Henro House Sakura an in Hiwasa, booked via HH. 3700 with breakfast. Beautiful old building, real
living museum. Doubles as a small bar at night, so snacks aplenty. Owner let me bring friends from
another guesthouse in for snacks and beer, despite them staying elsewhere (and Hiwasa was very
quiet back then in February). Lovely lady, with a lovely cat.
Day 12 B4
Pavilion Surf in Shishikui, booked through their website. Spent two days here, with the 2nd to rest.
No idea...maybe 6000/7000 for two nights? Really cool surfing vibes in this surf
shop/commune/school. Beyond Blues next door is a must visit if you have time. Indigo dye from a
previous OHenro-san.
Day 13 Resting
Pavilion Surf again. There's a cafe at the southern point of Shishikui before you hit the tunnel who're
very friendly to pilgrims. The coffee was great and the vibes immaculate. Worth a visit. Had a
metalwork dragon in the garden, can't miss it.
Day 14 walking
Ryokan Tokumasu, maybe 7000 with two meals? Booked through previous host. Recommended for
their food and that was a spot on suggestion. Incredible seafood, blew us away. Conveniently
located for a short walk to the Cape the next morning. 4 generation family working here, absolutely
magic.
Day 15 T24
Business Hotel Fuji, Muroto City. Umm about 6000 with two meals. Booked through previous host.
Honestly very dated, needs a lot of TLC, but the owner was friendly and the food was spectacular.
Seriously good stuff, so I couldn't not recommend it. Bedroom sunset views from my 3rd floor southfacing room were so welcome.
Day 16, T25-26
Henro House Misono-san in Tano. 3500 with extra 1500 for two meals. Incredible lady, lovely food,
wonderful little oasis of a place amongst agricultural land. I think she's got a bit of a reputation for
being a henro hero and its well deserved. She didn't stop helping her guests and the phone didn't
stop ringing the whole time I was there. I can't recommend staying here enough, and she's got
plenty of room. She also gave me the location of somewhere prearranged to drop my bag the
following day for the hike up to T27. I won't detail it here, obviously, but if you stay there make sure
to ask as it was very useful for me. My knees were starting to get a bit punchy by this point, and my
feet were starting to suffer also, so this was helpful. She also grabbed my guidebook and wrote
down two further addresses on the trail and told me to stay there (which I did). Take all advice this
lady gives you. Edit: I’ve been rewatching Ingmar’s videos and he stayed here too – in 10 years she’s
not aged a day and her attitude is as lovely and warm.
Day 17 T27
Henro house Mikeneko, Ioki. About 4500, no food. A cool little place, really old building hugging the
train line. Resident cat is mischievous. When you get there you need to phone a number so that the
host can come down and sort you out. I had to get a Japanese guest to help me with that one, so a
heads up could have very happily used it as a base for a rest day, cute place. Sad I missed the
nearby gorge/caves of Iokido so maybe a rest day here next time.
Day 18 T28
Ryokan Yuan, at the base of 28. Maybe 6500 with two incredible meals. Booked through prior host
(on the recommendation of John Wu ). My feet had blistered unto death by this point and my
game plan was 'make it to Yuan/make it to Kochi city to buy sandals/don't die'. Lovely house ran by
an older couple, very friendly. Let me use their WiFi after checkout as I had to work out some
trains/transport due to the foot situation in the morning. I have a wonderful photo of him waving
me off looking quite concerned.
Day 19 T29 - 30
EN Hostel in Kochi City. Expected hostel experience, booked through Booking.com, wasn't a lot of
yen. Pretty hands off place, I grabbed a private room so I could run 1st aid on my feet in peace. I'd
grabbed some Jesus Sandals from Montbell which, over the coming week, sorted my blister issues.
Unfond but important memories of replacing my various compeed measures whilst trying not to cry
behind the main gate of T30.
Day 20 T31-33
Mitsuinku house, just beyond T33. Curious place this, booked via the email address in the
guidebook. No face contact with the host but they were excellent. Paid an extra few hundred yen for
konbini breakfast and dinner to be left in the kitchen. I never met my host (or anyone) but they
helped me a great deal with accommodation via emails back and forth. Can't remember cost now, a
few thousand yen, 4500 maybe. Had to pay over an emailed link they sent which was secure and not
concerning.
Day 21 T34-35
Henro House Onkosha, just down from T35. 3500. Lovely lady in a gorgeous traditional house. You
have to take your own dinner, though she gave me snacks as O-settai. Due to my feet issues in the
days prior I'd not at this stage booked anywhere to stay and she went above and beyond to book me
a few places. The next day she dropped me at T36 which was about 15km away, my schedule was a
mess due to the previous week and I couldn't work out what to do about it other than accept a short
lift. A real trail saint.
Day 22 T36, B5
Satsuki BH, Susaki. Can't remember the price, 5000ish. This was apparently the last available place in
the whole town, but Mrs Onkosha managed to get me in. It was quite dated and grubby, to be
honest. Finding someone to let me in was difficult as no one was manning the reception, and I had
to ask a local to help me. I wouldn't recommend, though it was this or nothing...so I should be
grateful. B5 in town was lovely which made up for it, and the local nabeyaki Ramen is a must eat.
Day 23 T37
Hatagoya, Shimanto. 5500 no food. Booked by Mrs Onkosha. A sort of Japanese take on an American
motel...only unlike the seedy Murder-nests of Hollywood films. Clean and efficient with lots of baked
goods for breakfast and teddy bears everywhere. It was about 40-50 minutes walk from T37. It was
fine, I guess. I didn't really meet anyone, so it was a wasted opportunity against a guesthouse or
Ryokan, but I did book late. It served me well. I would recommend trying to get into the
accommodation at T37 which is quite extensive.
Day 24
Okinohama. 6500 with two extraordinary meals and incredible hospitality. A Misono
recommendation (and booked by her, a hero). I admit I had to jump ahead a ways, hence the
dramatic jump in time here. My minor breakdown in week 1 and feet ruination in week 2 had really
set me back. I decided to bite the bullet and jump about a days walk from Shimanto Town to
Shimanto City, and walk a full day to Okinohama Minshuku. This place overlooks the ocean and is full
of character. The food was incredible and the folks running it were lovely. I stayed here two nights so
that I could do the return trip down the Cape in a single day (always leave your luggage when you
have the opportunity!).
Day 25 T38
Okinohama again, such good food!!
Day 26
Tsurunoya, near T39. Booked via previous host. Like 6500 with two meals. This place was a brilliant
surprise as some Google reviews had been negative, but my experience washed that right away.
Incredible food (first time I finished my entire supplementary rice bowl) and the family were very
friendly. The walk here along route 21, through Mihara village, and then across the dam, is
phenomenal. I repulled my knee here and it rained a bunch but it still knocked me back for beauty
and good vibes.
Day 27, T39-40
Aoikuni BH in Ainan. 7300, just breakfast. Booked through prior host. It was fine, very clean and well
situated. Expensive, but its a BH for normal folks, not us dishevelled and enlightened walkers. I chose
the western breakfast option as I was feeling a little down due to budding knee complaints at this
point. It was fine, and I wouldn't not recommend it, but would rather have had a nice local
minshuku.
Day 28, B6
Guest U hostel, Uwajima. Found this online and booked on their website. Maybe 3500 for a dorm
bed, no meals. Beautiful family ran place in one of my favourite cities. Their food recommendations
were spot on. Warmly recommended as a place to stay, and a city to take a rest in (wish I had!).
Day 29, T41-42
Matsuchiya, Unomachi. Maybe 6500 for two meals, booked via previous host. One of the stand out
places for traditional Ryokan experience. Ran by two venerable ladies, no English but we managed to
chat anyway. A really lovely and warm stay with wonderful people. Can't recommend enough.
Unomachi is a cool little town too, explore the old town if you've time.
Day 30, T43
Henro House Tokiwa in Ōzu. 4500 no meals (no meals bookable through HH, though they are
available. I didn't, but you could enquire). Stand out place, a bloody koi atrium inside! Absolutely
superb lodgings, and Ōzu is a wicked place. Stayed two nights as its off to B7 tomorrow. You should
try and stay here, strong recommendation.
Day 31 B7
Tokiwa again, and a wonderful and life changing soaking wet cycle up the mountain to a very special
temple.
Day 32 B8
Tado Village, 2 meals, maybe 6500/7000. Booked through prior host. A wicked little place, brand
new and built into an abandoned school half way to Kuma Kogen and T44. Facilities were very
comfortable. Very interesting stay. No shops on the village, just a couple of vending machines (no
beer, I really did look Maggie, sorry!).
Day 33 T44
Garden Time in Kuma Kogen. 7800 two meals. Booked via previous host. One of those rare places in
the book that's awarded a star (others in my list include Tokiwa, Tokumasu, YH in Matsuyama, Inn
TEK-TEK by T87). Really nice family ran place, food was very good, stayed up late drinking with the
family’s kids (I say kids, in their 20s and at uni..am I old now?). Lovely stuff.
Day 34 T45
Minshuku Takano also in Kuma Kogen (far middle left pg. 65 2023 ed (also bottom right pg. 66)).
Booked through Air BnB. 8000. Old traditional house, woodfired bath, incredible views over Kuma
Kogen on the guy's huge wooden viewing platform. I intend to do a little separate post about this
chap as I had quite an interesting stay there and his pricing structure suits groups better than solo
folks. Funny story cut short:
1. I intended to book this venue on AirBnB
2. Accidentally booked a venue on the other mountain opposite
3. Didn't realise
4. Turned up to drop my bag for the walk to 45 as planned. Everything was as in the welcome email.
Lovely owner showed me around the place, his photography work, made me incredible coffee, we
spoke for a few hours about everything
5. Walk the circular 45 walk
6. Get back and get settled in with the chap who slept on site.
7. No wifi at the time, but pop on my roaming data to check in with a friend I was meeting the
following day
8. Many many worried emails from my worried host...where was I, was I OK?!
9. ....what? I'm in your house...?
10. Creeping dawning realisation...I'm in the wrong house! I thought I'd booked this place, but I'd
booked (and paid) one on the mountains across Kuma Kogen! Send 732 separate apology emails to
other place, luckily she doesn't hate me (Tentsuki Place I believe, actually walked past it on my way
into town the day before, idiot)
11. Own up to it with my host over breakfast
12. Laugh
13. Pay about 14000 yen for two beds over one night
14. Decide that the story is better than the financial ruin and I should make peace with it
15. It's 5 months later and I'm almost at peace with it
Day 35 T46-T48 B9
Henro House Hojo Suigun. 6000ish for two meals. Matsuyama was rammed this weekend, I think
maybe the kids were all back from school etc so booking was tricky. I did the day's walk and had to
train it a lil way north and back the next morning. The place is fine, and the owner and his dog are
very welcoming, but I think the place needs some TLC, or he needs an assistant to help out. Clearly a
labour of love, this place. The food is communal, delicious, and right carnage in its organisation. An
experience.
Day 36 T49-51
Henro House Matsuyama Youth Hostel. Little restful half day starting back at Kume Station by 49.
2920 with breakfast (meal option too but I went out as I was in bloody Dogo district at the weekend
and life was good). This place was brilliant. If the Dogo Onsen inspired Ghibli's Spirited Away then
surely this place helped with Howl's Moving Castle. A giant yellow fist of a building hugging the
hillside spread over 4 floors of mixed interior design. My lil room was 4th floor and 8 miles away
from reception and I loved it. Breakfast was a tidy little buffet. Great stuff, and so cheap!
Day 37 T52-53
Back at Henro House Hojo Suigin from a couple days back.
Day 38 T54-55
Oronzino Feng, Imabari, between T55 and the sea. This one isn't in the guidebook, I found it through
Karen's suggestion (Queen of AirBnB - have a google). Between 4 and 5000 for just the bed. This is a
curious place, a sort of capsule/bunk hostel aimed at cyclists and it geared up for folks with bikes.
Very clean and hands off - I had to give the manager a lots of heads up to my ETA. It was fine though
the rooftop space gives *incredible* views of Imabari, the mountains, and the inland sea. Genuinely
worth it for that alone I'd say.
Day 39 T56-59. T62
Nojima House, near T60. If you've not seen Taniguchi-sans posts ion Facebook then you've been
asleep. An incredible human being who helps henro out through knowledge, lodging, advice,
transport, and warm feelings. He hosts folks through this house just a little ways behind T62 as a sort
of Zenkonyado. Booked directly though him on Facebook, 2000 donation requested (but please be
more generous if you can). He's incredible, and you should do your best to spend time here if you
can.
Day 40 B10-11, T60, 61, 63
Nojima House again. My knee issues had really began the day before coming down from T58 and
didn't get better until about 8 weeks post-Japan hence my temple numbers are a bit all over the
place going forward. I'll try and give Knee Advice™️ too as I imagine a lot of Henro are suffering by
this point as well. Taniguchi-san kindly drove me to B10 and B11, before dropping me at the
trailhead to T60 (the Eastern approach, by the Okunoin of 61 (Shirataki, the waterfall training site)).
Knee Advice: there's a private bus that takes you up and down the mountain to T60, you can catch
that at Yokomine-tozanguchi bus stop pg. 75. I believe there's a website to get the times but they
are infrequent and the last one at ~3pm was easily missed by myself and I was lucky to find a driving
OHenro who drove me down to T61, another trail hero.
Day 41 T64, B12
BH Route Inn, about 8500 inc. Breakfast. Knees and lack of energy meant I'd booked Shikokuchuo
city quite late and so had to live with a big pricey hotel. Still, it was immaculate and full of services,
so I couldn't be too sad. Booked through previous host. It was fine, was what it was. Long ole day,
though blessedly flat. No Knee Advice needed here. T64, Maegamiji, is just so so special. They all are,
they really are, but this place spoke to me. I'll come back one day with fresh knees x
Day 42, T65. B13
Henro House Moriso/Mohri, just after the descent from T65. 3000 no meals. Nice place, owned by a
chap who loves to show his travels and the photos of his own Henro. No facilities around here so
bring your own dinner and breakfast. Simple accommodation, but with extraordinary views of the
Valley. Very peaceful. The owner isn't local, so don't approach the neighbouring house and bother
the unexpecting older fella like I did. Knee Advice: the walk up wasn't too too bad, but the stairs up
to T65 from the carpark were tough. Go easy. The road down towards 66 is actually a very gentle
gradient so it shouldn't be too too bad. I had to bail on my plans to head to B13 as a result.
Day 43 T66, B16
Minshuku Shikokuji, 6800 with two meals. Booked through previous host. Nice older place, felt very
warm and lived in. Knee advice...well up until now righty was fine and I could walk flat and up with
lefty...but 70% upto T66 walking up with lefty fell apart and became very painful. With the joy of
hindsight I would've cut my losses and used the ropeway both ways, but I climbed the Manda trail
up, died a bit, and took the ropeway down. Its a tough day, obviously, and if you're in any doubt be
kind to yourself. My memories of Unpenji are pain and fear of new and unknown injury. It is what it
is, I can always go back!
Day 44 T67-70, B18
Zentsuji Shukubo, 6500-7500 inc. Breakfast. Booked through previous accommodation. Incredible
experience, as every Shukubo is. Kitchen was closed for dinner but there's a brilliant wee place
across the road from the accommodation block that I went to. Everyone should try and use Shukubo
when and where they're available, though you'll need to book in advance as they fill up very quickly
in my experience. Knee Advice: largely a flat day with some steps to 68/69 though you can
circumvent some of this with the private road around the bulk of the property. After 70 I trained
from Motoyama St. to Kaiganji to visit B18, and then walked across town to T75 and my
accommodation. This was enough wear and tear to really rough me up to the extent that I actually
asked a guy waiting in traffic if he could drive me to T75, but he couldn't. I must have been
desperate, and the guy looked a little intimidated, which I feel bad about.
Day 45 T71-75
Henro House Zozu no Sato, Kotohira. So this place isn't the listed Suzumeno oyado top left pg. 82, it
isn't actually listed at all (2023 ed. at least). It's roughly where you can read the 1.4km distance
marker in town, just to the right of the 'm', just an FYI. Stay was 3000 but I paid an additional few
thousand for dinner and breakfast. A wonderful and warm older couple who are new to HHing. They
really were lovely, and stayed to talk about life for ages. His knee was also bad so I pointed at mine,
then his, and declared 'Kyodai' (brother) and they both laughed and he shook my hand with his giant
farmer hands. It was very wholesome. A bit off the track but worth it, and a great base if you climb
the Kotohiragu shrine. Knee advice - the climb to T71 is very tough, I actually took the service road
into the main complex, and then toughed out the many stairs to the final hall. It's a beautiful place,
despite that. The others aren't too bad, though even 73 gave me some trouble. A train from Zentsuji
to Kotahira and a walk to the HH.
Day 46 B17, T81-82, T78
Vtangura, near T78. Booked through prior host, 1000 (yep!). This was the second of Misono's
recommendations. Its ran as a paid Zenkonyado, and has a separate room out front where I also met
some separate people who offered O-settai the following day. Lovely old lady running it, she was
very attentive and spent time with me and the two other guests. Boys were in a separate building in
the garden. It was lovely. Knee Advice: weird day! My previous nights host drove me to B17 and
back, a lovely gesture. Then the inestimable Raymond collected me in his car and drove me to T81
and 82 as I was pretty scared of tackling them. As it was they were very stairs-heavy, so I dread to
think how I might've managed these without his help. Plan B was take the yellow 180 road between
81 and 82. Or a taxi. Tough choices if you can't find yourself a Raymond.
Day 47 T76, 77, 79
Henro House Sanjo, Hashioka, one stop along from T80. 2800 no meals. With my knee bad I decided
to book three nights at this tidy hostel and use train links. It was billed as a basic hostel but I found it
well appointed and the main area was an older building, so I actually really enjoyed it. I was very
grateful for how it turned out. It's about 20 minutes from Hashioka station and has a bundle of shops
nearby. Its good. Knee Advice: I trained it back to Zentsuji from Vtangura and walked from there as
I'd left my bag with my host and the day was flat. Goshoji (T78) is a little hilly but otherwise the day
was flat and happy. I grabbed a train from Yasoba near 79 and went back to Hashioka.
Day 48 B15
Henro House Sanjo, Hashioka again. Knee Advice. Missed B15 Hashikuraji in order (before T66).
Took a train to Hashikura St. and then the Ropeway up and down the mountain to B15. Being a
mountain temple it was still a huge amount of steps so this was still a tough visit, but eminently
worth it. One of my best days for scenery and spiritual experiences.
Day 49 T80, B19, T83
Henro House Sanjo, Hashioka again. Knee Advice – an easy flat day. I ended up walking mostly a big
ole circle (with a train between 20 and B18ish). Nothing to report – except a recommendation to
visit the huge Shinto shrine (Tamura Jinja) next door to T83 (its Okunoin in fact).
Day 50 T84, 85, 86
Henro House Tek Tek behind T87. 3600 no meals (Konbini 5 minutes, big store 15 minute, cracking
restaurant about 8 minutes away on Green route #10). Great modern hostel style, all very new.
Owner was such a lovely chap. OHenro himself and so happy to be alive and to talk to you. Really
nice stay. Used it as a final point for this day, but then also as a return point for my T88 loop. Knee
Advice. T84 – there’s a private bus up and down from it starting at JR Yashima but also at private
line stop Kotoden Yashima. At the top there’s not enough time to run in, enjoy the temple, and get
back out, so if you do it this way then prepare for a wait. I walked down because the knee had
healed a bit by now, but a week before and I’d have been waiting on a bus for sure. T85 has a short
cable car going up and down it for 1000 round trip. Once there it’s quite flat. T86-T87 is quite flat
and you get to walk through the curiously named Orange Town. Not because of the name so much,
but more that the towns name seems to be in Katakana suggesting the town’s name is ‘Orange
Town’ first, and Orenji Taun second…which I didn’t get but did like. Didn’t see a huge amount of
citrus plantation either, so I’ve no idea. These last couple of sentences were of no use, sorry :D
Day 51 T88
Henro House Tek Tek behind T87. Walked to T88, got the bus outside back, nice and tidy. On
reflection I was well enough to walk back into the Tokushima valley and return to T1 the traditional
way, but when I booked this all I had no idea where I’d be, so there we go. Knee Advice – I took the
‘traditional henro trail’ (marked C) which was hilly but entirely on road surface, and so was gentle.
Then it’s a case of walking the road and pathways to T88. If I’d been worse I could’ve just taken the
road the whole way I guess. Or the bus both way if really bad. T88 has a fair bit of step work, but
not as much as T81 and 82 earlier.
…then I trained it back into Tokushima! I used the following three places of the next couple of days
which I’ll briefly account:
Takamatsu – Hutalton Cabin (3000-4000 no meals). Central capsule hotel. Very basic and did what I
needed it to. Booked online.
Tokushima Pref near T7 – Henro House Okudaya – 4500 no meals (but he’ll take you to the nearby
onsen for bathing and eating). Lovely chap, a monk and his family runs Aizen-in which is the
Okunoin of T3 (you’ll walk right past it on the way to T4 – if you go in to the right they may have an
O-Settai donation, donate generously in Aizen-in please ). Very well recommended. If I return
and started at T1 and missed B1 then I think Monzen Dori to here in a day is very doable if you get
an early start.
Tokushima – Sakura-so about 3000-3500 no meals. Booked through previous host. A starred option
in Tokushima, I get the feeling she’s been hosting pilgrims forever. Lovely old lady, very attentive,
looked after my luggage the following day whilst I visited the dancing festival in town. Just brilliant.
So that’s it! I planned for this to be quite short and clipped and here we are at 5400 words…sorry!
Hopefully its of some use. The info is largely accurate as of September, 2023. Obviously things will
change. Japan’s economy isn’t brilliant at the moment and I know a bunch of places are/have
already begun putting prices up. Just roll with it and remember you’re helping recover an economy
that was especially mullered by Covid-19 (which I had this week and I’ll lay blame for any
inaccuracies/rambling text at Covid’s door).
Happy to answer any questions, gimme a shout. Hopefully one day I’ll see you in England (live down
the bottom) or back on the Henro no michi.
Cheers!
Kio tsukete x
オランダのお遍路 Margreet が泊まった宿
という言葉は今生きているのでしょうか。
それはさておきこの１６日からの３連休に四国を歩くという人が、昨日のYouTubeライブにチャットで参加した４０人の中で５人もいる。その日以外の９月に歩くという人が別に４人。実に２割の人が今月四国に乗り込む。通しで歩くだけの時間が取れない仕事を持っているお遍路さんたちは、ちょっと涼しくなって３連休となると見逃すことができないという感じになってしまう。ぼくも仕事で休みの取れない期間が３年ほどあってその時期には日帰りで四国に行ったりしたから彼らの気持ちはよく分かる。通しで四国を巡るのに比べて満たされない不十分なことがいっぱいあるけれど、そんなことはどうでもよくてとにかく何が何でも四国に行きたい、それだけだった。
でも通しのできない彼らが、通しのできる僕らに比べて不幸か、不運か、不十分かというと全くそんなことはなくてむしろ彼らの方が幸せではないかという感じすらする。
お遍路さん 無料お接待 CAFE
大正５年の町家で カフェ オープン
店内には世界最大の映画館用ホースピーカでレコード真空管アンプ再生
ドリンクしか有りませんが、少しの時間レコードSound を聴いて休憩してください
西予市宇和町卯之町３−２０３
場所は第一ビジネスホテル松屋から西（西北西）へ３５ｍ、道の北側にあります。「sound 器」
アクセス
トータル
