Higashi Chaya-gai, time slip to Edo

Higashi Chaya-gai used to be one of the sophisticated entertainment districts managed under official permission of the Kaga Fiefdom in the Edo period. Before this district was constructed in 1820, a number of ochaya houses, where wealthy merchants enjoyed the evening entertained by geisha performers of classy arts, had randomly stood in the center of Kanazawa.

This district was called Higashi (east) in comparison with Nishi (west), the west side of the river called Sai-gawa, which was developed almost at the same time. According to an official drawing from the time, the Higashi district was 100 meters from north to south and 180 meters from east to west, thriving with 90-some ochaya houses and spartan-looking wooden gates built at respective ends of the district. Later in 1831, Higashi was abolished by the order of the fiefdom but again recognized in 1867. Since then the district has kept its tradition and even now they do not accept first timers without a reference from their old clients, though the number of ochaya houses was reduced significantly.

Higashi is the largest of three such districts extant in Kanazawa. You might not be able to be greeted by geisha but it’s an excellent place to enjoy walking whether it’s an early morning walk or quiet evening stroll. Better avoid coming here during the day when the souvenir shops along the street are crowded with tourists. Come here even before 9:00 am when there are fewer tourists and still you can try visiting one of the ochaya houses called Shima. It officially opens at 9:00 but they were kind enough to let my friend and me come in around 8:30 when we went there to review the interior.

Shima, with its graceful lattice front and Kaga elegance inside, retains most of its structure and atmosphere since its construction in 1820. Try the 2nd floor first, the highlight of the house, then come back to the 1st floor. They have an official web site. Go there and find more pictures. Click “Flash Movie” at the bottom of the page. You’ll enjoy the slide show.
http://www.ochaya-shima.com/english/index.html

Kanazawa has always been kind to me, including the lady at Shima and all the taxi drivers who gave me a ride. That really makes a big difference on your impression. One of the taxi drivers gave me a discount; another kindly showed and talked about what was seen outside while driving; still another gave me a package of sweets. Incredible! I love you guys.

One of the friendly additions to the city in 2004 is The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, a circular glassy museum without a primary façade. It has a zone free of charge where commissioned works are permanently displayed and is open till 10:00 pm. I once saw a girl and her father having a good time in the free zone late in the evening. Swimming Pool by Leandro Erlich and Blue Planet Sky by James Turrell in the free zone are especially popular among visitors. They look different and you feel different depending on what time of the day you go there.

The museum was designed by a reputed architect duo called SANAA (SEJIMA Kazuyo & NISHIZAWA Ryue). This is one of their signature buildings, revealing their tendency and preference in design. For details, here’s the museum’s official web site. I just happen not to have taken any pictures of this museum. The reason, most likely, is I got lost every time I went there and was busy finding the way out. So spare extra time, because it’s a sort of another dimension where you might be disoriented.
http://www.kanazawa21.jp/en/

 

99% of gold leaf in Japan is from Kanazawa

There's a book entitled exactly the same as today's blog title. Yes, whether precisely 99% of Japanese gold leaf has been made in Kanazawa or not, Kanazawa is a city of gold, with its 400- year-long tradition of gold leaf making. Kanazawa's gold leaf has been indispensable for repair and maintenance works of Japan's national treasures and important cultural properties. One example of Kanazawa's pride can be found in the world-famous Kinkaku-ji or Golden Pavilion. The pavilion was refurbished in 1987, when 200 thousand Kanazawa gold leaves of a specific size were used. Here's the picture of the pavilion. To fully appreciate the serenity and aesthetics of the place, you are advised to be the first visitor of the day, arriving there a little before 9:00am, anxiously waiting for the panoramic ecstasy which will come to be revealed right in front of you.

Kanazawa's gold leaf store Sakuda 金沢金箔のお店さくだ

Hi! I'm back though my primary PC is still in the Hospital. That's partly why I haven't updated the blog articles for some time. The PC should be coming back soon. Since I have enough time today, I decided to write a new article instead of waiting any further. This is a picture of a gold leaf store in Kanazawa. Established over 80 years back, Sakuda deals with one of Kanazawa's both tangible and intangible assets, the Gold Leaf products and the marvelous techniques to make Kanazawa's delicately thin gold leaf possible. The gold leaf of Kanazawa has a traditon of 400 years, one of the lucrative resources of the Maeda lords who ruled here during the Edo period. With the wealth procured by these techniques and final products and giving their share to the formidable Tokugawa ruling family in cunning ways, the Maeda family managed to survive the reign of the Tokugawa central government, even though they were once against the Tokugawa before the decisive battle of Sekigahara, which lead to the establishment of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603. Now back to the store; they have a small workshop where you can get to see part of the gold leaf making. You might have a pleasant surprise to see how warm the gold leaf feels. It is made of metal but with human devotion and commitment dedicated into the raw material, it simply acquires life. One interesting by-product of gold leaf making is Grease Absorbing Paper. The artisans use this paper of enduring quality to make gold leaf thinner, first putting respective leaves between the paper sheets and then hammering the whole set of 1800 sheets. The grease absorbing paper is the second life of these special sheets of paper. They only abosorb oil off your face, leaving your make-up intact. No wonder Kyoto's maiko and geiko are regular customers of this special paper. (In Kyoto, they are called Geiko not Geisha.) Go upstairs and you'll find the displayed items like gold leaf screens and panels fascinating as well as their esthetic bathroom. Well, try sitting in there. You will feel like you are something. More about Kanazawa's gold leaf coming soon.

Kanazawa's magical architecture 忍者寺こと妙立寺＆尾山神社

I love to explore architecture, old and new. This time in Kanazawa, I ventured into a temple named Myo-ryu-ji, nicknamed Ninja-dera due to its perplexing design and layout. You can't tell where you are if you are not ushered and guided inside. Somewhat similar to Kyoto's Nijo-jinya, but different touch, since it's a temple used by the Maeda lords, Kanazawa's samurai governors; while Nijo-jinya was for those lords who didn't have their own lodging to stay while visiting Kyoto and not a temple but a private residence. The guide from the temple speaks in Japanese. You might not understand the language; still it's worth visiting and experiencing the wonder. Stay close to the guide and you'll be able to guess what she is talking about. Or you hire me, then I'll let you know what's happening. Hurray! No photo-taking is allowed inside so I bought a set of picture cards. The temple doesn't look pretty outside. That was why I didn't take pictures at all. You only have to guess, which will increase your suspense and will be all the better. To go there, you need to make a reservation by calling at 076-241-0888. I called the day I went and it still worked. But in busy seasons, you'd like to call some days in advance. Instead of a photo of this temple, let me give you that of Oyama-jinja shinto shrine. This is also architecutually unique, not a traditional shinto gate. Fun to watch and the precincts are free of charge. For your reference, here's the URL of the temple (Japanese only except captions to the photos, but surely you will enjoy the images). http://www.myouryuji.or.jp/ninzyadera.html

Kanazawa's Hanayome Noren 花嫁のれん

Here's another photo from the 2nd floor of the same museum. This hanging is called Hanayome Noren or the Bride Hanging. Used only for a wedding ritual as an entrance hanging when
Hanayome or a bride first steps through it into the house where her husband and in-laws live.

Kanazawa's not-to-be-missed spots 金沢おもしろスポット

Kanazawa has a lot of attractions. Some are real places and some others are intangible assets. Let me pick up two hot tangible places you might miss if you don't know them in advance. One is Shinise Kinen-kan or the Museum of Long-established Stores. I'll start with this tonight. The admission is only 100 but worth much more than that. The Michelin Guide gave this museum one Michelin Star, while to the city of Kanazawa itself two Stars and Kenroku-en garden three Stars. The museum is a former drugstore from the Edo period. Even without enough English signs and explanation, I bet you sure enjoy this place. It's a good buy. See the photo. The other not-to-be-missed place is Myo-ryu-ji temple. Its article is coming soon.

Kenroku-en with snow 雪の兼六園

Lastly today from the renowned Kenroku-en garden of Kanazawa. See its famous hanging supportive ropes in the method called Apple Tree Way.

Kanazawa's straw-coated lantern こもがけの野村家灯篭

Here's another example of using straw in a gentle way, covering the stone lantern in the garden of the Nomura family. The lantern seems to be appreciative of the straw coat.

Straw-covered mud walls 金沢武家屋敷

Here's how the mud walls are covered by straw mats. In Kanazawa you see clever and caring ways of using straw to protect things like walls, trees, and lanterns from wet cold winter snow.

Kanazawa's Ame Store 金沢俵屋

Here's a picture of a well-known ahmeh or candy store in the city of Kanazawa, Ishikawa prefecture. These store curtains read "tawaraya" on the left, "ah" in the middle, and "meh" on the right. This is a store named Tawaraya, selling Ahmeh or candy. Very genuine and healthy kind. The store has a tradition of more than 170 years, making ahmeh mainly with rice and barley. Theirs is naturally sweet. Good to dissolove the sticky liquid type ahmeh in hot water with ginger juice. That makes yourself warm from inside. Near this store is an old samurai neighborhood where a number of high-ranking samurai families once lived, with some of them still living there tending their well-trimmed garden and straw-covered mud walls. The straw mats are to protect the walls from wet snow during winter.