How can you improve your soil condition, improve its drainage, feed plants organically, recycle landscape and garden debris, turn kitchen scraps into plant nutrients and create one heck of a soil to plant your container gardens in this year? With compost.
Compost is simply an end product to the process by which billions of microbes work to decompose and recycle grass clippings, plant debris, small twigs, thatch, leaves, various kitchen scraps , pine needles, manure, sawdust, straw , wood chips or old mulch into usable organic matter. It's a dark, nutrient-rich, organically plant-friendly fertilizer that is often referred to as "black gold."
There are two categories of recyclable debris, "greens" and "browns." The greens include fresh kitchen scraps such as vegetable/fruit peels, coffee grounds, tea bags, green plant debris, manure, old flower bouquets, grass clippings, etc. The greens basically provide nitrogen.
The browns tend to be dry and bulkier and as a result provide air passages throughout the pile for the microbes to breathe: autumn leaves, straw, wood chips, broken up branches, sawdust, egg shells, dryer lint, old mulch, etc. Browns'provide a food/energy source for microbes. A well- balanced compost pile is roughly a 50-50 combination of each. What you want to steer away from adding is diseased plants, meat scraps, bones, human waste, cat litter, dog feces, chemically treated wood, invasive weeds, weeds that have gone to seed and hay.
As for the worker microbes, they are living organisms; thus they require both air and moisture. A well-balanced mix that is turned several times while it's breaking down ensures good air circulation. The needed moisture comes from the moist greens and supplemental water that you or the skies provide; the rule of thumb is your pile should be "as wet as a wrung-out sponge."
What you decide to use to make your compost in is up to you. You can buy a pre-made bin or box, construct your own (there are many design ideas on the web) or go simple like me and just make a pile. A properly maintained and functioning compost pile does not smell, so don't be afraid to locate it where it's convenient to get to; otherwise, you'll end up not utilizing it. As for sun or shade, that makes no difference at all.
To get started, layer your materials; starting with a 6-inch or so layer of browns, preferably small broken twigs or wood chips to allow good air circulation along the bottom, then any browns will do in subsequent layers. Next, layer 6 inches of greens. Remember, these should be "sponge moist." For the next layer, add about 1 inch of garden soil. This introduces microbes to your pile. If adding manure, add it as the next layer, 3 inches deep. Repeat layers until bin is full or pile is at least 4 feet high and wide.
A working pile is one that begins to settle or collapse down in about a week and with an internal temperature around 140 to 160 degrees. This temperature range is optimum for microbe activity. In about 4 weeks, turn the pile with a pitchfork, adding water if needed. Check temperature weekly, turn again when it falls below 140 degrees (composting thermometers are available at garden centers). Piles high in grass and leaves tend to compact and slow down decomposition. so keep tabs on the temperature and mix weekly. Your compost should be ready in about 2-4 months; winter slows the decay process; summer quickens it.
Uses for your homemade black gold include tilling or mixing it into your soil to improve drainage in clay soil and water retention in sandy soil. If you have a few bare spots in your lawn, before seeding mix a generous amount of compost into the soil, level it off and then seed. Once you get a sizable amount made, use it as mulch to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Even try mixing it with an equal part of water, then allow it to set a few hours; the "tea" that results is outstanding when used in place of water-soluble fertilizers and the "sludge" that's left at the bottom of the bucket is great for working into the soil around the base of your plants.
Compost is simply an end product to the process by which billions of microbes work to decompose and recycle grass clippings, plant debris, small twigs, thatch, leaves, various kitchen scraps , pine needles, manure, sawdust, straw , wood chips or old mulch into usable organic matter. It's a dark, nutrient-rich, organically plant-friendly fertilizer that is often referred to as "black gold."
There are two categories of recyclable debris, "greens" and "browns." The greens include fresh kitchen scraps such as vegetable/fruit peels, coffee grounds, tea bags, green plant debris, manure, old flower bouquets, grass clippings, etc. The greens basically provide nitrogen.
The browns tend to be dry and bulkier and as a result provide air passages throughout the pile for the microbes to breathe: autumn leaves, straw, wood chips, broken up branches, sawdust, egg shells, dryer lint, old mulch, etc. Browns'provide a food/energy source for microbes. A well- balanced compost pile is roughly a 50-50 combination of each. What you want to steer away from adding is diseased plants, meat scraps, bones, human waste, cat litter, dog feces, chemically treated wood, invasive weeds, weeds that have gone to seed and hay.
As for the worker microbes, they are living organisms; thus they require both air and moisture. A well-balanced mix that is turned several times while it's breaking down ensures good air circulation. The needed moisture comes from the moist greens and supplemental water that you or the skies provide; the rule of thumb is your pile should be "as wet as a wrung-out sponge."
What you decide to use to make your compost in is up to you. You can buy a pre-made bin or box, construct your own (there are many design ideas on the web) or go simple like me and just make a pile. A properly maintained and functioning compost pile does not smell, so don't be afraid to locate it where it's convenient to get to; otherwise, you'll end up not utilizing it. As for sun or shade, that makes no difference at all.
To get started, layer your materials; starting with a 6-inch or so layer of browns, preferably small broken twigs or wood chips to allow good air circulation along the bottom, then any browns will do in subsequent layers. Next, layer 6 inches of greens. Remember, these should be "sponge moist." For the next layer, add about 1 inch of garden soil. This introduces microbes to your pile. If adding manure, add it as the next layer, 3 inches deep. Repeat layers until bin is full or pile is at least 4 feet high and wide.
A working pile is one that begins to settle or collapse down in about a week and with an internal temperature around 140 to 160 degrees. This temperature range is optimum for microbe activity. In about 4 weeks, turn the pile with a pitchfork, adding water if needed. Check temperature weekly, turn again when it falls below 140 degrees (composting thermometers are available at garden centers). Piles high in grass and leaves tend to compact and slow down decomposition. so keep tabs on the temperature and mix weekly. Your compost should be ready in about 2-4 months; winter slows the decay process; summer quickens it.
Uses for your homemade black gold include tilling or mixing it into your soil to improve drainage in clay soil and water retention in sandy soil. If you have a few bare spots in your lawn, before seeding mix a generous amount of compost into the soil, level it off and then seed. Once you get a sizable amount made, use it as mulch to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Even try mixing it with an equal part of water, then allow it to set a few hours; the "tea" that results is outstanding when used in place of water-soluble fertilizers and the "sludge" that's left at the bottom of the bucket is great for working into the soil around the base of your plants.