What is Tool Steel： Properties & Guide to Choose A Right Grade

Tool steel is an alloy of carbon that manufacturers use for various purposes including machining and cutting. Their distinctive properties, including hardness, resistance to abrasion, and deformation, make them suited for shaping other materials through cutting and machining.

So, what is tool steel? What are the properties of tool steel? How is it different from stainless steel? What are the different grades of tool steel? How do you choose the ideal grade for your machining purposes?

Read on as we provide answers to these questions with an in-depth understanding of tool steel.

Unlike mild steel, tool steels have densely-packed metal lattices with carbon and metal component parts. They also contain elements that form carbides, such as Molybdenum, Chromium, Vanadium, and Tungsten. Besides, their ability to resist softening while performing excellently at high temperatures is due to the presence of nickel and cobalt.

The carbide content of tool steel makes it an exceptionally tough carbon alloy that is wear-resistant and hard. Besides, their chemical and physical properties make them ideal for doing tough jobs such as punching, cutting, drilling, and grinding. It also makes them suitable for manufacturing tools such as hand tools and machine dies.

Now, let’s examine its classification and applications.

There are six different categories of tooling steel including; cold-work, water-hardened, hot-work, high-speed, shock-resisting, and special purpose tool steels. Below are the classification of tool steel and their application.

This is one of the major types of tool steel. It is tough, hard, and wear-resistant in cold environments with temperatures below 200oC. However, cold-work tool steel does not perform well when exposed to hot environments.

Besides, cold-work steel has high machinability. This is due to the presence of graphite and the lubrication it provides. What’s more, the most commonly used tool steel grades in this category include; D2, O2, A2, D3, and D6.

These are the different subcategories of cold work tool steel.

1.1 High Carbon Chromium or D Series Grade Tool Steel

This cold-working tool steel is also known as stainless due to its high chromium content and contains 11-13% chromium. Although they have limited corrosion resistance, their 1.4-2.5% carbon content gives them a high abrasion resistance. It also enables them to function at temperatures as high as 425oC.

Besides, their ability to undergo oil or air quenching with minimal distortion gives this tool steel application in making cutters. It also makes the D series tool steel ideal for making seaming and forming rolls, plastic injection molds, lathe centers, and woodworking knives. Its other applications include making burnishing tools, lamination dies, draw punches as well as cold extrusion dies.

1.2 Air Hardening or A Series Grade Tool Steel

These types of tool steel have a carbon content of 0.05-2.85% and up to 5% chromium content. Furthermore, this grade of tool steel is very tough with high wear resistance. Common applications include coining, embossing, blanking, and blending dies.

1.3 Oil Hardening or O Series Grade Tool Steel

Quenched by oil during production, this series of tool steel has a carbon content ranging between 0.85-2.00%. They are also tough with have high abrasion resistance. The applications of Oil hardening tool steels include making bushings, collets, gauges, master engraving rolls, punches, and chasers for thread cutting.

This category of tool steel contains heat-treated carbon steel. Produced at low-cost and water-quenched, water-hardened tool steel has a carbon content ranging between 0.5-1-5%. The high carbon content of water-hardened steel makes them brittle and hard. However, it is low on other alloying metals like tungsten, nickel, or molybdenum, usually less than 0.5%.

The types of tool steel in this category usually have a carbon content of less than 0.6%. However, they contain a greater percentage of other alloying elements. This enables them to keep their characteristics and work optimally even at extreme temperatures up to 540oC due to the creation of more carbides.

The high-temperature resistance of hot work tool steel makes it ideal for use in manufacturing materials like metal and glass that require high temperatures for optimal malleability.

Additionally, one benefit engineers derive from using tool steel under this category is their continued functionality, even after exposure to extended heat. The most commonly used tool steel in this category is the H13.

Based on the percentage of alloying elements used, there are three main alloy elements in this category: molybdenum, and chromium.

3.1 Molybdenum-type Tool Steel

This is a hot work tool steel that has a high molybdenum content. Furthermore, this type of tool steel has high wear resistance and heat stability, especially in situations of extreme temperature. What’s more, their ability to handle force and heat gives Molybdenum-type tool steel applications in metal mills as cutters or dies.

3.2 Tungsten-type Tool Steel

This type of tool steel contains 9-18% tungsten and 2-4% chromium. Tungsten hot work tool steel although brittle, it has excellent heat resistance. Furthermore, one way to circumvent the brittleness of this tool steel is preheating it to operating temperature before use.

3.3 Chromium-type Tool Steel

The Chromium type is the most used hot work tool, containing 3-5% chromium. They could also contain below 5% of other alloying elements like molybdenum, tungsten, or vanadium. Common applications of chromium-type tool steel, include hot forging, hot working punches, and plastic injection mold.

High-Speed tool steel contains many elements, including 0.6% carbon, 3-5% chromium, and 14-18% tungsten. Furthermore, the invention of this category of tool steel is partly responsible for ushering in the era of modern production. Before the invention of high-speed tool steels, when cutting tools and machines worked for long periods, their efficiency decreased due to friction. However, with this tool steel, cutting tools and edges keep working efficiently, performing at optimal speeds.

Common applications of high-speed tool steel include the production of power-saw blades, milling cutters, router bits, gear cutters, and drill bits. The M2 high-speed tool steel is the most common in this category.

Developed to have high-level impact resistance, shock-resisting tool steels are remarkably strong. Furthermore, this tool steel’s strength is due to its high toughness value and low carbon content. This tool steel category contains alloying elements found in other categories, as well as 0.15-3% silicon.

Although this steel does not have optimal abrasion resistance, it has excellent resistance to shock regardless of temperature. Besides, these properties make S-grade tool steels ideal for producing jackhammer parts, blacksmith chisels, and clutch parts.

In addition, its other applications include hot stamps, pneumatic tools, chipper knives, cold and hot working chisels, hot forming dies, and cold gripper dies. The S7 tool steel is the most popular in this category.

These are tool steels like an excellent mix of toughness, corrosion, hardness, and resistance to wear and tear. Furthermore, tool steel under this category also has high impact strength and is easy to polish.

Besides, plastic mold tool steels are ideal for companies that use the processes of extrusion and injection molding to produce plastic. Using this tool steel for making molds ensures tool durability and reliability.

Also, they are tool steels created for special purposes. And Like the water-hardened tool steel, these ones are water quenched. Tool steels in this category contain high-iron steels, while other alloying elements are either absent or present in minute quantities. Adding other alloying elements sparingly helps carbide drilling inserts improve the mechanical properties of this tool steel while ensuring it is not as expensive as other tool steels.

An instance of special-purpose tool steels is the low-carbon mold steels used in thermoplastic molding. This specially crafted mold steel does not require high impact resistance but excellent wear resistance and heat tolerance. In common, the P20 is the most popular used tool steel in this category.

This tool steel grades chart contains the most common tool steels and their comparative properties.

The tool or product you want to machine plays a huge role in the tool steel types you should choose. Besides, steel grades have different properties that make them ideal for different applications and uses. When choosing a grade for machining tool steel, here are some properties to consider.

There are different grades of tool steel available for metal machining. Furthermore, they differ from each other based on their chemical composition, temperature range, as well as the type of hardening.

However, the ideal tool steel grades for machining include cold working steels like O1, D2, and A2 and high-speed steel tools like M2. Although O1 has a high hardness, it has good machinability. This grade of steel is ideal for machining cutting tools and drills.

D2 also has good machinability due to its high carbon and chromium content. It has good toughness and Its resistance to wear makes it ideal for machining tools that should last long.

Additionally, the A2 tool steel has a good balance of toughness and wears resistance. It also has good machinability. This tool steel is ideal for forming punches, injection molding dies, and trimming dies.

Not all tool steels perform optimally under high-speed levels. Using the wrong tool grade for machining would decrease tool steel hardness and wear resistance with time. So, if you would utilize tool steel under fast movement, it is best to fabricate the tool using high-speed tool steel. The reason is that they have a higher resistance to wear and extreme temperatures, even at high speeds.

Cost is an important factor to consider when choosing a tool steel grade for CNC steel machining. However, it is always best to avoid cutting corners on the choice of material since you might spend more if the tool fails prematurely.

So, before committing to a particular tool steel grade for machining, it is best to undertake a cost-benefit analysis. This analysis would ensure the chosen material is suitable enough to yield the required performance.

Although they are both steel alloys, stainless steel and tool steel differ from each other in composition, properties, and application. Here are the differences between these two types of steel.

Both stainless steel and tool steel differ in properties. This difference is due to the variation in their constituent elements. Chemically, tool steel is a carbon alloy with other alloying elements which include tungsten, chromium, molybdenum, and vanadium.

For instance, due to the presence of carbides in tool steel, it is extremely durable, machinable, and resistant to wear and tear. Generally, tool steels are tougher with better tensile strength than stainless steel. This makes them ideal for producing heavy-duty cutting tools. On the downside, the lack of or decreased chromium content makes this steel prone to corrosion.

In addition, stainless steel is a chromium-nickel alloy with nickel, nitrogen, titanium, sulfur, molybdenum, and silicon as other alloying elements. It has a high rust and corrosion resistance due to the presence of chromium. What’s more, it usually has a smooth, brilliant, and lustrous surface.

Manufacturers use tool steel primarily for making tools. It has applications in tools such as drills, hammers, saws, and other cutting tools, basic tools used within the workshop. Manufacturers make tools in this category for manufacturing and fabrication, with little to no care for appearance and hygiene. Instead, the focus is on toughness and resistance to wear and tear, attributes that would improve such tools’ efficiency while reducing their maintenance and replacement rate.

On the other hand, Stainless steel has applications across a wide range of industries. Its resistance to corrosion and lustrous appearance makes it ideal for use in architecture and other outdoor installations where exposure to environmental factors is certain. Steel in this category is also hygienic and easy to clean and maintain, making them ideal for use in the food and medical industry. For instance, it has applications in manufacturing kitchen utensils and medical tools like speculums, needles, bone saws, and scalpels.

As a reliable and reputable manufacturer, WayKen specializes in different manufacturing processes, including CNC machining, 3d printing, rapid tooling, surface finishing, etc. No matter you require machining tool steel or steel molding services, we can all meet your needs.

What’s more, if you are not sure what tool steel grade is ideal for your product? Not to worry, we have a team of professionals and engineers to ensure you select the right steel materials for the best results. Feel free to contact us for a quote or any other questions you might have.

Tool steel is a carbon alloy with diverse uses, and it has different categories based on the percentage of other alloying elements, type of quenching and temperature range. Choosing the right tool steel grades for your project often spells the difference between a successful and a failed tool.

Why does tool steel fail?

Tool steel fails mostly due to heat-treatment problems and failure to understand the tool steel properties. This results in failures in the form of chipping, plastic deformation, cracking, etc.

What makes tool steel ideal for use in machining?

Tool steel is ideal for machining due to its beneficial properties like abrasion and deformation resistance, hardness and ability to retain a cutting edge regardless of increased temperatures.

Can you mill tool steel?

Yes, you can mill tool steel. However, the process used for milling tool steel differs from that used for normal milling operations.

What is the hardest tool steel?

The hardest tool steels are those with a high vanadium content. The tool steel category with the highest percentage of vanadium is the cold working tool steel, which has excellent wear resistance.

The Tungsten Carbide Blog: http://good-deed.blog.jp/

How to Do Lathe in Woodworking？

To do a good spin, some basic techniques must be tungsten carbide inserts mastered. For a woodspin craftsman, to abandon the decoration of the details or to make the object a little more delicate, the tool must be used perpendicular to the grain of the wood in order to cut the fibers, so that the cut parts are smooth and smooth.

Turning cylindrical works of the end face is different, turning knife is easy to pick out the fiber, resulting in uneven surface.As a result, traditional shaft turning pieces have many arcs decorated with grooves, but very few cylindrical parts.

Contents hide 1Turning tool for shaft turning 2General methods of turning Turning tool for shaft turning

The turning tools for shaft turning include semicircle cutting tool, bevel turning tool, shallow groove semicircle knife, cutting tool and so on.The size of the tool depends on the size of the work on the one hand, on DNMG Insert the other hand depends on personal habits of operation.

Small turning knives can only be used for small objects, while large turning knives can be used for both large and small objects (although they are not commonly used for small diameter objects or for carving small details).

Turning tools used for shaft turning (from top to bottom) : fine semicircle turning tool, bevel turning tool, spherical turning tool, cutting turning tool, shallow groove and deep groove turning tool

You usually only need a semicircle blank cutter (can be deep groove, also can be shallow groove), can be blank operation.

Bevel turning tool is the most commonly used turning tool for shaft turning.Although the bevel turning knife may give the impression that it is easy to bite, in fact, the biting problem is more serious and destructive.

In contrast, the bite problem of the bevel turning knife is acceptable and does not cause too much damage to the wood.So, you don’t have to worry too much, once you get the hang of it, you’ll be very comfortable with the bevel turning knife.

I like to use a 19 mm wide bevel turning tool for turning objects less than 75 mm in diameter.I like to use a 9 mm thick, 40 mm wide bevel turning tool for larger diameter pieces.

This knife is modified with a scraper, which is heavier, more stable and stronger than the former.In order to ensure that the bevel turning tool slides smoothly along the tool rest, it is necessary to grind the sharp corners on both sides of the turning tool into a slightly convex arc with grinding wheel or grinding rod.

Most of the details need to be handled with a fine 13 mm semicircle knife.For objects less than 30 mm in diameter, a 9 mm fine semicircle knife works better.

General methods of turning

We can spin wood to make it even and smooth without sanding it.The core of the spin is to make the rotating wood come into contact with the blade from the top down.When the blade is at a 45° Angle to the rotating wood, turning is easy and the surface is smooth.Whenever you spin, you should always keep in mind the 45° Angle.As the blade makes more and more contact with the wood, the shavings get smaller and smaller, and when the edge is upright, turning is impossible.

The smaller the Angle between the cutting edge and the wood, the larger the shavings, the higher the probability of bite.When the blade is completely level and at a 90 degree Angle to the wood, it is easy to scratch the wood, leaving an uneven surface.

The core of control rotation is to make the rotating wood contact the tool, rather than forcing the tool into the rotating wood.When the blade of the lathe knife is at the optimal Angle to the wood (about 45°), the wood touches the blade from above and the shavings are cut.

As the shavings are cut off in layers, the blade is pushed slowly towards the wood, taking care not to press the blade against the surface.

Shaft turning is the process of reducing the diameter of wood from large to small, as shown by the arrow in the figure below.

To master the necessary shaft turning techniques, you can practice with square logs with a face length of 50 ~ 65 mm and a length of 250 mm.If the wood is shorter than the tool rest, you can save a lot of time by eliminating the need to adjust the tool rest.Set up the tool rest so that you can hold the tool comfortably.

If the axis of the lathe is close to the height of your elbow, set the tool rest slightly higher than the axis.Gradually lower the height of the tool rest as the diameter of the object becomes smaller.If you are short and the lathe is tall, turn the tool rest down.If you are taller and the lathe is shorter, you should raise the tool rest.

The Tungsten Carbide Blog: https://andyjessic.exblog.jp/

A Comprehensive Guide About Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits

A Comprehensive Guide About Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits

Have you given any thought to the possibility of trying your hand at engraving? Practice, self-assurance, and patience are the keys to success when it comes to engraving, regardless of whether you want to enliven boring household items or create a unique present for someone important. In this helpful guide to engraving with Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits, we cover everything you need to know to get started engraving with Huana Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits?as soon as possible.

The carbide used in the construction of solid carbide bottom engraving bits is of the highest possible grade. Huana?have a wealth of expertise in the production and distribution of high-quality Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits. Versatile bottom cutting engravers ground from solid carbide. The solid carbide bottom engraving bits are available in a wide range of angles and tip widths so that they may be used for virtually any engraving job. When used on most materials, including Double-color board, ABS Board, Acrylic, PVC, Aluminum, copper, and iron, Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits will produce clean cutting. On request, we may create angles and tip widths that are unique to your needs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Application of Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits

 

• Double color board?

The double-color board is a type of board that is specifically used for engraving and is comprised of two layers of different colors. Solid carbide bottom engraving bits are utilized for the purposes of cutting, shaping, and molding the double-color boards. Huana offers the highest quality solid carbide bottom engraving bits on the market, which are suitable for use on double-color boards.

• ABS board

Bottom engraving bits made of solid carbide are engineered to work with the characteristics of particular materials, which results in the cleanest cuts possible. When cutting ABS board using Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits, despite the fact that these bits are more expensive, if they are used correctly, they will last longer and offer a superior finish owing to the morphologies and geometry of the cutters. Flutes cutters that have been polished allow for improved chip removal and, as a result, increase the life of your equipment.

• Acrylic

Acrylic is a wonderful material to work with since it is resilient and flexible. It is an excellent alternative to glass since it weighs just one-half as much and possesses an exceptional resilience to impact. Although it may be purchased in any colour conceivable, acrylic should be avoided in locations that experience high levels of heat. Solid carbide bottom engraving bits are simple to use on acrylic and have the ability to cleanly cut through acrylic with little effort.

When cutting acrylic with an engraving bit, one of the most typical issues that arises is that the material warms up, which causes the edges to partially melt and then reform, either bonding back together or providing you with a rough edge. In order to prevent this from happening, you will need to shorten the amount of time that the solid carbide bottom engraving bit is in contact with the acrylic. Additionally, you should utilize Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits to assist you in achieving the finest possible finish.

• PVC

PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is a kind of plastic that is both inexpensive and strong, making it an excellent choice for components that must maintain their low weight. Along with having good resistance to corrosion, flame, and water, it also has a high level of machinability to near tolerances. PVC also possesses excellent toughness, impact Cermet Inserts resistance, and strength properties. PVC may be readily cut with Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits, and the finish they produce is of the highest quality. Using Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits, it is possible to mill foamed PVC as well as rigid PVC to a satisfactory level.

• Aluminium

Aluminum is one of the materials that is machined the most frequently since most forms of the material have good machinability. As a result, aluminum is one of the materials that is most frequently utilized in manufacturing. Because of this, there is often a lot of rivalry in the market for aluminum machining. Therefore, Huana has developed solid carbide bottom engraving bits constructed of solid carbide for aluminum. Aluminum is a lightweight material that can be worked easily and is very easy RCGT Insert to shape. You may find components created from this material in virtually every sector of the economy. In addition, due to its low cost and high flexibility, aluminum has emerged as a material of choice for the construction of prototypes.

Cast and wrought are the two primary varieties of aluminum that may be purchased. The alloys that are made from wrought aluminum are often more costly, stronger, and contain a lesser amount of elements from the outside world. In addition to being more resistant to heat, wrought aluminum also offers a greater level of machinability than cast aluminum. In order to facilitate the process for the Huana, solid carbide bottom engraving bits have been developed. These bits can be used on aluminum and provide the best possible finish. Bottom engraving bits made of solid carbide from Huana are capable of producing a good finish when cutting either type of aluminum.

• Copper

Copper is a great conductor of both heat and electricity; as a result, it is a suitable metal for use in a variety of electronic components, where its heat dissipation properties and excellent electric conductivity make it a perfect choice. However, slicing copper may be an absolute misery. Copper is a difficult material to mill due to its ductile nature, fluidity, and hardness, all of which combine to make it a problematic material. Because of its great ductility, plasticity, and hardness, copper in its purest form is a challenging metal to manufacture. Machining copper with a Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bit yields good results, however the finished product has a few burrs around the surface. Copper can have a higher quality surface finish if it is engraved using a solid carbide bottom engraving bit that has a shallow depth of cut.

• Iron

Cast iron may be machined with Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits into completed components just as quickly as most types of steel, but with less wear on the tools required for the process. It is an extremely reliable substance that is resistant to wear and is an excellent material for absorbing vibrations. Hand milling is still beneficial in some circumstances, despite the increased precision, accuracy, and output rates offered by Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits.

How Do You Get Started With Huana Solid Carbide Bottom Engraving Bits?

The pieces themselves are reasonably priced. Rather than forcing you to buy them all or figure it out on your own, this guide will show you how to utilize and select engraving bits to save time and money.

Select the appropriate engraving bits

Bottom engraving bit made of solid carbide by Huana. Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits are versatile and suitable for engraving, contouring, hollowing, and grooving. Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits are ideal for engraving materials such as ABS board, PVC, and aluminium.

Engraving Cutters are also suitable for detail work, particularly when the material is not too hard. They are equally effective on wood and plastic as they are on softer metals. Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits are particularly suited for fine-detail work. Because the bits are composed of solid carbide, they are ideal for engraving tougher materials.

Select the appropriate accessories for your engraving job

Consider attachments to be the items that make your project go a little more smoothly. The Flexible Shaft mounts in seconds to your solid carbide bottom engraving bit, and the 127mm cable adds comfort and flexibility while operation. The weight of the solid carbide bottom engraving bit has been removed, making it ideal for engraving a wine glass, for example. The Detailer’s Grip is another useful accessory that fits any rotary tool with a threaded nose piece. It shifts the weight of the tool to your palm for enhanced tool balance and control, which is especially beneficial for doing precision work like engraving, carving, etching, and polishing.

To begin engraving, choose a material

When you’re just starting out with engraving, go for something softer. Why? They simply make it simpler for you to get the desired amount of control while using your Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bit, making them ideal for novices. Brass and copper are the softest metals (so save that titanium watch for when you’re a little more experienced!). Leather, polymers, and wood are examples of soft materials.

Pay attention to the SHAPE

Material isn’t the only crucial thing to consider when selecting an object to begin engraving with Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bits. Consider the surface contour as well as the soft materials (such as soft metals, leather, or wood). What is the ideal shape to start with? Anything that is flat. You don’t have to worry about angles or constantly repositioning the object or instrument on flat surfaces. You only need to focus on getting acclimated to how the tool feels when engraving – which is precisely how it should be when you’re first starting off.

Take the necessary precautions

You’re probably eager to get started now that you’ve obtained the correct engraving bit for the job and a ready-to-engrave surface. But first, let’s go through some safety precautions. Leather gloves will not only protect your hands from cuts and scratches, but they will also be more resistant to wear and tear. Goggles and a dust mask are also recommended for engraving since you don’t want to breathe in tiny glass or metal fragments (or getting it anywhere near your eyes). And if the antique serving platter you’re eyeing exhibits any indications of corrosion, put down the engraving tool. Rust particles are hazardous to one’s health.

Get everything ready that has to be done

Check that the material you’re going to engrave is clean and dry before you begin. Not only should all traces of grease and cleaning solutions be properly removed so that you can see clearly, but also so that there are no issues at the stage where the item is transferred. Wood engraving? Confirm that it has not been treated in any way. If you wish to engrave on wood that has been painted in the past, you will need to sand it down and clean it with a damp cloth before you begin. You may begin using the Huana solid carbide bottom engraving bit once the surface has been well cleaned and dried.

Construct a pattern with the piece of material

Using a printed pattern as a guide to transcribe is an excellent method for getting started. Even while you may engrave freehand, using a template as a guide as you work is a far more efficient method to begin. When transferring a design from one surface of metal to another, carbon paper is the medium of choice. Placing the paper on top of the metal surface, arranging the design so that it fits, and then tracing it with a pencil are the only steps involved. It is much simpler to engrave PVC; simply position the design underneath the material, and you will be able to see it through the material and use it as a guide.

Conclusion

When it comes to the actual process of engraving, using solid carbide bottom engraving bits from Huana is the more convenient option. Because it is a movement that you are already accustomed with, it stands to reason that this familiarity bestows upon you the highest amount of self-assurance possible when it comes to the control that you exercise over your engraving tools. When you are just starting out in engraving, it is quite typical for things to take a little bit of time to go according to plan. If you put in some practice, with patience you learn, and keep it up, not only will your engraving talents improve but also your self-confidence. HUANA is the place to go without question if you want to get solid carbide bottom engraving bits made of solid carbide of a high grade.

 

The Tungsten Carbide Blog: https://douglasvio.exblog.jp/

What Methods are Useful to Discern Refurbished Bearings？

Bearing is a common and important part in mechanical equipment, and it is widely used.
In order to earn more money, there are many bad businesses who use old bearings to make good use of them, recycle some used or unused bearings, and then buy them as new bearings after treatment. There is a big difference between these renovated bearings and good bearings, and the service performance is not as good as good bearings. Today, I’d like to share with you the differences between renovated bearings and good bearings, as well as how to identify whether the bearings are renovated bearings when buying bearings.

Contents hide 1Differences between refurbished bearing and good bearing: 2Good ways to identify refurbished bearings:Differences between refurbished bearing and good bearing:

After the renovation, the size of the bearing has changed. The small outer diameter and the large inner diameter can be measured with a ruler.

Watch the bearing surface accuracy, whether smooth. The bearing is rough.

Turn the bearing by hand to renovate it. The bearing does not rotate evenly.

Observe the clearance between cage and rolling element, and the bearing clearance is greater than the normal clearance.

Look at the bead grain, bearing bead grain size is different, there will be wear and deformation.

Look at the slideway. The bearing slideway has irregular wear and deformation.

After the renovation, the size of the bearing has changed. The small DNMG Insert outer diameter and the large inner diameter can be measured with a ruler.

Watch the bearing surface accuracy, whether smooth. The bearing is rough.

Turn the bearing by hand to renovate it. The bearing does not rotate evenly.

Observe the clearance between cage and rolling element, and the bearing clearance is greater than the normal clearance.

Look at the bead grain, bearing bead grain size is different, there will be wear and deformation.

Look at the slideway. The bearing slideway has irregular wear and deformation.

Good ways to identify refurbished bearings:

Renovated bearings are generally limited by the technology and equipment of small bearing manufacturers, so the bearing accuracy is low, the bearing surface is rough, the chamfer size is uneven, and some still have black skin and pockmarks.

Some inferior bearing RCMX Insert materials are ordinary steel, carbon steel, Maanshan Steel and iron pipe. Most of these materials are white in appearance, while the color of special bearing steel is green. But just look at the color can not be completely determined, but also do hardness. The hardness of ordinary steel is low.

Some small manufacturers quenching technology is simple, bearing heating uneven, there will be slight deformation.

Rotate the bearing to see whether the bearing rotates evenly and whether the sound is continuous without noise.

Looking at the cages, the bearing cages of regular manufacturers are regular without burr, and the rivet pier heads of riveted bearing cages are the same size, while the processing technology and equipment of irregular manufacturers are simple, so the cages are rough, and some riveted structure cages are not evenly divided with or offset, and the rivet pier heads are different size or offset.

Look at the packaging, the packaging of regular manufacturers is consistent, the font on the packaging is clear, some counterfeit bearing packaging is inconsistent, or simple and irregular.

Look at the font on the end face of the bearing, both the steel font and the laser font of the original bearing are very clear and uniform. The laser font has a certain depth, and the counterfeit bearing font has broken marks. The laser font will disappear after being lightly wiped with gauze, while the regular laser font will leave fuzzy font marks after being wiped with gauze.

See the certificate, regular manufacturers bearing certificate, and the size of the certificate is the same, most of the certificate paper for oil proof paper. The font is clear, some manufacturers have query information on the certificate, counterfeit certificate, some font is fuzzy, the paper is ordinary paper, the size of the certificate is different. It is suggested to keep a formal manufacturer’s certificate for reference.

Some imported bearings are different from domestic ones in terms of antirust oil. Imported bearings are not without antirust agent, but without traces. The surface of bearings is clear, while some counterfeit imported bearings coated with domestic antirust agent feel sticky in the hand, which will taste like antirust oil.

Understand and understand the bearing typing specifications of normal products from some regular manufacturers, such as bearing model, trademark and year code. And some false bearing fonts are engraved, even if some fonts are blurred by laser.

If there are conditions, it’s better to visit the bearing manufacturer or brand dealer in person.

The Tungsten Carbide Blog: http://wellwell.blog.jp/

Anodizing Aluminum 101： How to Anodize Aluminum Parts

Lastest Updated On April 16th, 2022?

The anodizing process is perfect for several materials, however, the most important and commonly used one is aluminum. If you are new to machining, you might not be familiar with anodizing. The anodizing process can make a layer of oxide on metal parts and prove helpful for increasing the visual qualities of metal parts.

This guide will take you through everything you need to know about anodizing aluminum. We will discuss what anodizing aluminum is, how to anodize aluminum and the benefits of aluminum anodization. Let’s check more.

Anodized aluminum has been treated with an electrolytic process to harden and protect the metal. This process creates a layer of oxide on the surface of the aluminum that is more durable and corrosion-resistant than the metal itself. This oxide layer can provide corrosion protection to metal parts.

Anodized aluminum is often used in applications where the metal needs to be strong and resistant to the elements. The anodizing process can also be used to change the color of the aluminum, giving it a unique finish that is both durable and stylish.

It is possible to anodize an aluminum part no matter what manufacturing method. The anodizing aluminum process is a cost-effective and simple method, so it has a wide range of applications for various industries.

Before understanding how anodized aluminum works, we should first know the selection of anodizing materials and the preparations that need to be done before anodizing the parts.

Anodizing process is an electrochemical process that makes a metal surface durable, decorative, and corrosion protection. Aluminum is suitable for conductive materials, and it is one of the most suitable for anodizing. Some other non-ferrous metals can also be anodized, such as titanium and magnesium.

The anodizing process is not suitable for stainless steel and steel due to the formation of rust. Rust can not prove good to make a tight and corrosion-resistant coating on steel, while aluminum contains natural oxide layer to protect the underneath metal parts.

The aluminum oxide can not apply to a plating or paint surface, and aluminum oxide can fully integrate with the underlying aluminum substrate. It can not peel and has a highly porous structure for secondary processing of coloring and sealing.

The specular characteristics and features of anodized surface and finishes have proved aluminum are one of the highly selected materials for various sectors. Some main advantage of anodizing aluminum which makes it is a widely used material to produce thousands of industrial products.

It can use to make the tallest building structure, such as Illinois and the Willis Tower in Chicago.

It requires less maintenance and provides a durable surface.

It is considered an eco-friendly material and protects satellites from a harsh environment.

Make use of mechanical finishing techniques when necessary. Etching alone isn’t enough to correct pre-existing surface defects like scratches and dents. If these marks are evident on a part’s surface, you might as well use mechanical polishing techniques like grinding, buffing, and sandblasting.

Be mindful of your packaging. Before sending out your parts for anodizing, make sure that you have packed them to be dent-proof and well-cushioned. Additionally, avoid sticking tape directly to the surface to be anodized.

Ensure that your parts are properly cleaned and degreased. Look out for uncleaned swarf seated on blind holes, fingerprints on the surface (avoid handling parts with bare hands!), and residual oils from the fabrication processes.

Remove steel inserts like rivets and pins on parts to be anodized as these can corrode differently throughout the different treatment processes.

The working principle behind anodized aluminum parts involves inducing the oxidation of aluminum by submerging it into an electrically conductive acid electrolyte solution where oxygen ions are released. This method uses anodic films to get aesthetic effects.

To further understand the process of anodizing aluminum parts, here are 4 major steps involved:

Step 1: Pre-treating

The pretreatment process involves achieving a visible finish and a clean work part.

Cleaning: Pretreatment cleaning is important to remove residual grease, oils, and other impurities from a previous fabrication process like extrusion or CNC aluminum machining to avoid impurities and inconsistencies in the finished part.

Etching: The surface finish of a part before anodizing is relevant because it will dictate the quality of your final result. Tweaking your desired surface finish can be done through etching, where minor imperfections on the surface are corrected while being prepared for anodizing.

Step 2: Anodic Oxide

After the surface is prepared, the parts will go through the anodizing step, submerged into a bath of sulfuric acid electrolyte solution (which may vary depending on the type of anodizing process chosen). The electrolyte solution has many positive and negative ions and is an electrically conductive solution.

The positive ions can attract the negative plates and the negative ions to the positive anode. An electric current causes it in the circuit. The negative ion attracts the aluminum parts, which is the positive anode. The aluminum parts will serve as an anode.

At the same time, a cathode is installed within the tank to allow an active passing of electrical current through the system and induce the release of oxygen ions from the electrolytic solution. This process will create aluminum oxide in the substrate, which is also called a barrier layer. But it is rougher than the aluminum surface.

Step 3: Coloring

The anodic coating formed on the surface layer is porous by the structure, which allows the addition of color into the part. Various ways of adding colors to an anodized part involve submerging it into dyes or dissolved metal salts. This process achieves finishes like black anodized aluminum, gold, nickel, and stainless.

Step 4: Sealing

To close the porous surface created in anodizing and provide a uniform surface, the parts are subjected to a final step that will submerge them into a nickel acetate solution. Sealing ensures long-lasting color and prevents further corrosion for the anodized part.

So, what’s so different about anodizing aluminum compared to other finishes is its process. The majority of protective covers are added to the material, while in anodize aluminum, the cover is formed by removing positive ions from the surface of aluminum parts. There are three major types of anodizing carbide milling inserts processes on aluminum parts, resulting in the different finishes and appearances we see on several products.

This type uses a chromic acid solution to create a thin coating (from 0.5 to 2.5 microns) on parts. Chromic acid anodizing produces the thinnest coating and least color absorption among the three major types. Although the coating is relatively thin, it protects the aluminum part against corrosion and is an effective first coat for powder-coated or painted finishes.

Type II anodizing is the most commonly used method for anodizing aluminum parts, where it is used as the anodizing solution. It produces an anodized layer of 2.5 up to 25 microns. The porous nature of this process is perfect for absorbing dyes well. Type II is not good for parts having tight tolerances.

This hard anodizing process is also done on a sulfuric acid solution. However, the layer produced is much thicker and denser than the normal sulfuric acid anodization. The hardness of the aluminum oxide of type III is equivalent, and the difference in hard coats thickness can alter the surface appearance of the substrate. This is used for tough applications where superior abrasion and corrosion resistance are needed, such as medical devices.

It’s not easy to step to choose the most suitable type of anodizing and know-how anodizing works. You should choose the anodizing process by considering the various applications of aluminum parts. A highly qualified company can suggest which type of anodizing is best for your project. You can choose the best anodizing aluminum parts by comparing different types of anodizing.

Type 1 has specific properties such as good corrosion resistance and uses chromic acid to make a thin layer acting on the surface of parts. Type 1 is good for aircraft parts manufacturing.

Type II anodizing is mostly used for the applications of architecture and aircraft. Type II uses sulfuric acid instead of chromic acid to create thick coatings of anodized layer on parts. Type II has moderate wear resistance and uses sulfuric acid to make a thick layer on the surface of the aluminum part.

Type III is best for parts that can withstand chemical exposure and high temperature. Type III has the same features as type II but has some results variations. Type III creates a layer of corrosion and is used to make sturdy metal parts.

There are many advantages to anodizing your parts, and here are some of the reasons why you may need to anodize:

Aesthetics- Anodized parts add a little hint of elegance and enhance a part’s overall surface finish.

Durability- The whole process of anodizing improves a part’s overall corrosion and abrasion resistance which heavily contributes to the extension of the lifespan of the work part.

Ease of maintenance- The corrosion and abrasion resistance of anodized aluminum make it hard for the part to incur dents and wear.

Color Stability- Unlike other plating methodologies used in the industry, anodized parts do not chip off or peel because of their structure.

Economical- Anodizing aluminum cost is a cheap way of achieving a desirable finish with impressive surface properties.

Have Improved Insulating Property-Outer anodized layer of anodizing aluminum parts has insulating properties and has low electrical conductivity. So a reason for choosing aluminum for anodized parts.

Dimensional Considerations

Remember that you need to compensate for the anodizing thickness in arriving at your final part dimension and designation of feature tolerances.

Hardness Requirements

Be mindful of your applications and their tensile strength requirements to know what hardness you need to call out on your parts design.

Color Matching

Manage your expectations when setting up your desired color as different metals and alloys react to various dyeing compounds and coloring parameters.

Combined Coatings

Anodized parts may also be subjected to secondary coating processes like painting and Teflon impregnation to further enhance their corrosion resistance and structural integrity.

Conductivity

Testing the conductivity is an easy way to check the anodization of aluminum parts. It can check the conductivity of the surface by using a digital multimeter. Anodic layers can be good insulators, and they can be applied with a clear chemical conversion coat in certain areas.

In such a way, Anodizing has revolutionized the aluminum fabrication industry due to its excellent and impressive enhancement of mechanical and aesthetic properties. This can be seen in almost any walk of life:

• Aerospace and Defense Industry

• Medical Industry

• Automotive Industry

• Consumer electronics

• Custom parts

• Architecture and construction industries

• Prototyping and product development

• Housewares

• Hydraulic fittings

Many end product uses and functional benefits of anodized aluminum offer great design opportunities for users and companies.

Anodizing is an important process to manufacture products and involves submerging aluminum components into an electrolytic solution and chemical baths. It has large applications for many industries and proves helpful in providing a safe living style. This process has variations in its cost and complexity, but it ensures you get better and high-quality end products.

At WayKen, we offer professional aluminum anodizing service that will give you the best value with our high-quality processes, quick turn-around time, and competitive pricing. If you have any quotations or projects to review, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Here, we can offer practical advice on different parts finishing services that can help enhance your prototypes and parts.

1. Is Anodizing Aluminum Expensive?

Anodizing aluminum is a cost-effective process, but some variables are required to consider before assessing the cost of aluminum. These variables are anodizing type, thickness, lead time, pre-processing requirements, dimension of aluminum materials, and anodizing process. These factors are responsible for an increase or decrease in cost.

2. Can aluminum be anodized at home?

Anodizing aluminum is a simple and easy process, and you can do it at home. Try to use small aluminum pieces so they can submerge in small quantities of acid. You need to find small aluminum parts to perform anodize aluminum process. You require sulfuric acid, a cathode, aluminum wire, distilled water, an acid neutralizer, a power source, tanks, eye protection, and gloves.

3. What colors can you anodize aluminum?

Anodizing aluminum process is open to all rainbows colors, and they are different from other methods and techniques such as paint and powder coating. Many factors are involved, such as grade, finish tapes and sizes.

4. Can you anodize aluminum twice?

when your anodized aluminum parts are open to wear and tear, it may cause damage to items so that anodizing parts can be repeated. You can do it either by using chromate conversion or applying other methods. It can restore the appearance and provides much better adhesion for paint primers. It will make your aluminum component more protective and appealing.

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